The Star-Ledger - Friday, October 6, 2006
Tim Shafer’s Cuisine in Morristown no longer has the eponymous chef-owner manning the kitchen. Schafer sold the restaurant in June –after 11very successful years – and relocated to North Carolina. But you’d never know it from the flawless innovative American food still served here, and the still-impeccable service.
The restaurant now operates under the staff that worked with Schafer for years, former sous chef and current chef de cuisine Fredy Umanzor and general manager Nestor Bedoya. The transition has been seamless.
Ambience: The canopied store front restaurant on Speedwell Avenue has a classy new look. The formal space is brightened by a sunny color scheme, with richly papered, golden-hued walls punctuated by elaborate candle sconces. An intimate front room, “the cove,” seats 10; the main dining room, 60.
Staff: Excellent. Our server was both savy about the intricies of the food and refreshingly personable.
Food: The concept hasn’t changed: Globally influenced dishes with an emphasis on wild game and exotic meats, and some dishes accented with beer (Schafer’s signature). They appeal to both eye and palate.
Our exceptional dinner began with warm focaccia drizzled with rosemary-scented olive oil. Appetizers were divine – lush cream of mushroom and broccoli soup ($4/$8) with herb-roasted croutons; mussels ($12, a special) steamed in a smooth Belgium wheat ale; mini tortillas stuffed with house-made duck confit ($12) blanketed in smoky white cheese encircling a ramekin of Guinness stout-spiked barbecue sauce; burger-sized lump crab cake ($12) nestled on a vegetable slaw and braced with spicy chipotle lime crema.
Entrees dazzled. They say you can judge the quality of a restaurant by how it prepares a simple roast chicken. The red wine roast half chicken ($24) – crisp-skinned, juicy within, and partnered with very good oven-roasted potatoes and a vegetable medley – passed with flying colors.
Things got a bit more interesting with a Flintstone-sized, grilled double-cut pork chop ($25) filled with (pre-rccall) spinach, wild mushrooms, and smoked gouda. The tender meat was escorted by a mound of ale-whipped sweet potatoes and sautéed vegetables. Pristine scared fillet of tilapia (a.k.a. “St. Peter’s fish,” $24) crusted with crushed pistachios was enlivened by a sweet-savory citrus, wheat beer and butter sauce and was artfully draped over Chinese black rice. Pasta lovers should enjoy the fresh basil fettuccine ($22) tossed with chicken, prosciutto, garlic and tomatoes in a basil-pinot grigio sauce.
The pastry chef creates excellent dessert ($8) – Beer-A-Mi-Su, a mascarpone mousse enhanced by dark porter; a rich, dark chocolate mousse, and a peanut butter crunch torte were all well worth the calories.
Tim Schafer may no longer be heading up his former crowd-pleasing catery, but he’s left the place in more than capable hands.