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The Star-Ledger - Friday, October 6, 2006

Tim Shafer’s Cuisine in Morristown no longer has the eponymous chef-owner manning the kitchen. Schafer sold the restaurant in June –after 11very successful years – and relocated to North Carolina. But you’d never know it from the flawless innovative American food still served here, and the still-impeccable service.

The restaurant now operates under the staff that worked with Schafer for years, former sous chef and current chef de cuisine Fredy Umanzor and general manager Nestor Bedoya. The transition has been seamless.

Ambience: The canopied store front restaurant on Speedwell Avenue has a classy new look. The formal space is brightened by a sunny color scheme, with richly papered, golden-hued walls punctuated by elaborate candle sconces. An intimate front room, “the cove,” seats 10; the main dining room, 60.

Staff: Excellent. Our server was both savy about the intricies of the food and refreshingly personable.

Food: The concept hasn’t changed: Globally influenced dishes with an emphasis on wild game and exotic meats, and some dishes accented with beer (Schafer’s signature). They appeal to both eye and palate.

Our exceptional dinner began with warm focaccia drizzled with rosemary-scented olive oil. Appetizers were divine – lush cream of mushroom and broccoli soup ($4/$8) with herb-roasted croutons; mussels ($12, a special) steamed in a smooth Belgium wheat ale; mini tortillas stuffed with house-made duck confit ($12) blanketed in smoky white cheese encircling a ramekin of Guinness stout-spiked barbecue sauce; burger-sized lump crab cake ($12) nestled on a vegetable slaw and braced with spicy chipotle lime crema.

Entrees dazzled. They say you can judge the quality of a restaurant by how it prepares a simple roast chicken. The red wine roast half chicken ($24) – crisp-skinned, juicy within, and partnered with very good oven-roasted potatoes and a vegetable medley – passed with flying colors.

Things got a bit more interesting with a Flintstone-sized, grilled double-cut pork chop ($25) filled with (pre-rccall) spinach, wild mushrooms, and smoked gouda. The tender meat was escorted by a mound of ale-whipped sweet potatoes and sautéed vegetables. Pristine scared fillet of tilapia (a.k.a. “St. Peter’s fish,” $24) crusted with crushed pistachios was enlivened by a sweet-savory citrus, wheat beer and butter sauce and was artfully draped over Chinese black rice. Pasta lovers should enjoy the fresh basil fettuccine ($22) tossed with chicken, prosciutto, garlic and tomatoes in a basil-pinot grigio sauce.

The pastry chef creates excellent dessert ($8) – Beer-A-Mi-Su, a mascarpone mousse enhanced by dark porter; a rich, dark chocolate mousse, and a peanut butter crunch torte were all well worth the calories.

Tim Schafer may no longer be heading up his former crowd-pleasing catery, but he’s left the place in more than capable hands.

Our thanks to a number of Morristown restaurant visitors for suggesting we write about Tim Schafer’s Cuisine. 

This restaurant has been in Morristown for 13 years and was owned/operated by Tim Schafer (a businessman and the chef). 

Sold almost two years ago to Nestor Bedoya (General Manager for 9 years) and Fredy Umanzor (Executive Chef), Tim Schafer’s Cuisine is taking some key steps to be attractive to our discerning Morristown restaurant customer.

“We believe that a successful restaurant in this competitive town must recognize the ethnic diversity in the county and selective tastes of our customers.” Bedoya told us. “While retaining some of the classic characteristics of the original Tim Schafer’s Cuisine (‘beer enhanced’ and wild game dishes), our objective is to go ‘above and beyond’ to retain current customers and attract new ones.”

How are they doing this?

“New American” – this style at Tim Schafer’s Cuisine blends some familiar American tastes with very unique flavors and accents.

“Globally Eclectic” – incorporates different foods and flavors from all over the world.  For example, the Mogul lamb chop dish includes such spices as paprika, cardamom, curry, cumin and a little bit of malt vinegar to add to the natural lamb flavor.

Chef Fredy – with 25+ years in some of the notable restaurant kitchens around Morris County, Chef Fredy Umanzor takes different flavors and foods from all over the world and puts his own “signature” on them. 

“Presentation” – Bedoya and Umanzor strongly believe that an excellent dish blends ingredients and preparation with presentation to satisfy and “dazzle” the customer.  Bedoya told us “We’ll take some of the dishes where the ingredients have been chosen to blend well together and yet can stand on their own.  No dish leaves our service window unless it conveys this dual message to our customer.  Our goal is to make everyone's dining experience here an unforgettable one.”

The décor – Tim Schafer’s Cuisine is very warm and cozy.  The 65-person main dining room does not feel at all like you are sitting in a big noisy room.   And the “cove” room – separate from the dining room and comfortably seating up to 10 guests – provides a small party, intimate setting. 

A “Morristown” spin – “Fredy and I love everything about this business in this town including working hard to reach a wide range of customers.” Bedoya commented.  “Our goal is to keep Tim Schafer’s Cuisine the top choice for people who come to Morristown for its entertainment as well as cultural and community activities.”

To see if Bedoya and Umanzor are on the right track, let’s hear some expectations and outcomes from some “real” customers on a recent Friday evening:

Andy and Estelle Bakun from Randolph (coming for their 2nd time):  “We came here the first time because we wanted to try something different and in a small place (which could be risky).  We found the selections on the menu to be most interesting and the food was delicious.” 

Linda and Walt Dlugolecki –Denville residents (Linda is an art/interiors consultant with commercial and residential clientele; Walt an executive with Capstone Advisory Group -- a financial service for business restructuring):  “We come here often and bring parties (largest was 18 people) and family to enjoy this restaurant.  We’ve gotten to know Fredy and Nestor and many of the staff members.  All have waited on us and made a point of knowing our tastes.”

“We brought Walt’s parents (in their 80’s and from a small town in upstate NY).” Linda told us.  “The restaurant staff was most gracious in adapting the menu discussions to help them make their selections.”

“And the BYOB is terrific for us,” said Walt.  “We have two wine cellars and love to bring our own.”

Linda had the loin of rabbit appetizer – “A little taste of the best.”  she said.  “Nicely laced with herbs and a wine reduction.”

Bob Pike – an independent sales associate with RE/MAX Properties Unlimited in Morristown: 

“My clients are people relocating to NJ (usually with some of the larger firms in Morris County).  I entertain a lot and enjoy bringing them to Tim Schafer’s Cuisine.  Nice ambience and the best food in Morristown.  Instead of picking from the menu, I often ask Nestor and Fredy what to have.”

This evening Pike also had the loin of rabbit – “first time and very tender” he told us.  And the Portobello mushroom appetizer -- a plump slice of mushroom topped with chopped fresh spinach, grated smoked mozzarella garnish and baked in a fresh tomato sauce with a balsamic vinegar taste.  “The presentation is beautiful.” Pike commented.  “It looks like the sun.”

And big thanks to Mr. Pike, a Morristown resident, who told us how much he enjoys the MorristownThisWeek section of the Daily Record.  “Great paper for different events – especially in local real estate.  Easy to read and I love looking to see who I know in the stories.  It has something for everybody.”